An automatic, stainless steel, Rolex Submariner "No Date" model. This watch could be considered the most iconic, and certainly the most recognizable watch in the Rolex stable. Since its inception into the Rolex line up in 1953 this watch has been worn and loved by deep sea divers, members of the military, movie stars and today's watch collectors. This version marked a fairly large design change with the continuation of the applied circular edge around to the hour indices that were introduced on the 16800 and late 5513 models.
This 14060 reference is part of the evolution into the more 'modern' Rolex Submariner. It was introduced circa 1989, remained in the line fairly unchanged until 2012. In 2012, the 14060M abandoned the lug holes on the side of the case, and this came to put an end to the classic Submariner era, eventually, leading to the introduction of the new-style case of the 114060, the "Maxi" case, which saw the proportions of the Submariner collection change. This version also now features the engraved rehaut, where the serial number moved, along with Rolex text around its frame.
This dial is marked "Swiss - T < 25", meaning that this dial has appliedTritium luminous material. This material replaced the highly dangerous, and radioactive Radium in 1963, and then was replaced by Luminova circa 1999. Just like radium, tritium was also radioactive; however, it came with a much lower level of radiation and a much shorter half-life. While tritium was exponentially safer than radium, it only had a half-life of twelve years. This meant that after just a few decades, only a tiny fraction of the initial luminescence would remain. Additionally, as tritium ages, the color changes, which creates often beautiful, and highly sought after patinas on the luminous markers on these older Rolex watches. Tritium was far from perfect, which lead Rolex to search for a better alternative. However, in collecting vintage watches with luminous material applied, Tritium is most desirable.
The watch is powered by a Rolex, Swiss made, thirty one jewel automatic calibre 3000 movement that powered the majority of all no-date Rolex models since its launch in 1990, from the Oyster Perpetual (OP) to the Submariner. This example marks the first year since the introduction of this new caliber. The 3000 is a certified Swiss chronometer caliber, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) test, being accurate to within 2/-2 seconds a day. However, for some reason, this movement in the 14060 case was never COSC rated. It was in the Explorer 1, but not the Submariner. It was later upgraded to the caliber 3130 which did receive its COSC certification. This also culminated in the shift of this reference becoming a "Four Liner" dial. The prior, unrated examples, meaning not COSC rated, only had the Submariner name with depth rating below it. This upgrade came in 2002.
Among a number of movement improvements was the extension to the power reserve form the caliber 1570 from forty two hours to forty eight, made possible thanks to a fast-rotating barrel. It is regarded as one of the best calibers produced by the company since its introduction in 2001, and testament to that is the fact it remained in use for around twenty years.
The case is as you would expect to find with a tool watch now over thirty years old, with slight scratches and signs of wear. It has been polished, which is very common with watches from this period. The bezel insert is correct and original to the watch. The pip set in the arrow at the sixty minute mark is original and present. The bracelet is also all original. It is a 93150 with 501B end links. It is also presented lightly polished and is original to the watch, with diver extension, and four removable links.
This is a superb watch, for someone looking for a collectible 'vintage' Submariner. As mentioned prior, this is one the last "classic" Submariner models aesthetically. Plus, with the new case, sapphire crystal and better bracelets it is more durable and harder wearing watch. Add to that the Rolex ungraded COSC quality movement and better sealing.
Many people over the years have sought the clean lines of the no-date submariner, with icons such as Steve McQueen choosing to make it one of his go to watches, and it is easy to see why. The two line version is by far the best looking, and with the Tritium luminous material, it is a future icon that is only going to get better with age.The dial is perfect, a strong case, and very tight bracelet making this a great example to own and enjoy.
